Clean Body and Mind with Healing Soaps

Thursday, January 19, 2006

From Lilla

To make soap in mass amounts you will need
very expensive machinery.

Soap is made in two ways...cold process that takes 4 weeks or more to
saponify, or hot process that uses heat to speed up this up. There are
two ways to hot process soap. Direct on fire in one pot or using
indirect heat such as oven or doulbe boiler.

It is possible to mass produce good soap. It is the recipe that makes
it good or not, not how large or small the soap batch is.

If you do not find this list very useful another one is called
HotSoapEtc here on yahoo groups. Good luck.
Started by: Delores Boone who wrote: Hand Crafted Soap

Good soap is rare only because many people put oils in just to make cheap soap
and do not care if it conditions the skins. :o)

Soap MAKES natural glycerine which is the best kind you can get. Bottle glycerin
chemical company's make. Not so good. It is processed.

Real soap only uses oils and/or animal fats. No petroleum things. The soap in the
stores using those are called synthetic detergents and are not really soap.

You will learn much from Ms. Boone and the soap list members there.
She does not let sales on her list so I watch both. :o)


Number 3....yes, not good recipes.

Color and fragrance oils is not a problem if it is good quality and not cheaply made
ones. Many soap make makers buy (and trade) the cheapest fragrance oils. It is
not good. If it is very cheap or on a garage sale beware of why.
Those cheap kind many times use wrong chemicals in them that can make a soap
turn spotty or smell like chemical. Yuck! They also IMHO can be problem for some
skin or give headaches. A good FO and color that is a cosmetic grade is not
going to be bad for soap.

Poor quality lye. Hmmmm...I think you are meaning if lye goes bad by humidity?
Yes, that can make a recipe be too soft and not act correctly. But if using fresh
pure lye or caustic soda at the correct amount there should not be problem.
One must store in very air tight container (in dry room) and not leave it open
very long. I put mine in plastic then in container with lid. Be careful you get
good grade of caustic soda. I like to get food grade. I bought a manufacturing grade
and it had little black specks. I had to wait for water and lye to settle then very
careful to pour only clean water first then keep the little black bits behind on
the bottom. Very time consuming and I did not buy that company again.

The most important thing you need is to learn how to make the best soap with the oils
you can get where you are. Ms. Boone is expert on making recipes work.

I followed instructions
from an HP tutorial site and stirred every 15 minutes but I'm reading
in other areas about HPers who don't stir at all. What's the
advantage to not stirring? Does the soap come out better? My first
batch did pretty well but the second batch was difficult,

I learned to make crockpot soap on a list that
advises new hp soap makers to not stir until they are experienced at recognising
what "done" hp looks like.
The basics is that you only fill your crockpot or roaster half full the first time you
try a recipe,so you can see what it will do, in case it tries to overflow. also you
can see it go through stages.
For instance, in the crockpot the soap (for most) will curl at the edges and then
meet in the middle. As it is curling the middle becomes smooth. This is what is
referred to as an island and waves. For all practical purposes when the island sinks
the soap is done enough to mold. That is if you the recipe is ok. Some cp recipes
discount water a lot, so that is something you don't want with hp soap. Always
run other peoples recipes through a good lye calculator.

I've tried a few more recipes and think I got it! I
was removing the 'batter' from the CP too soon.
Another question soaps have white chunks running throughout
them. Like overly cooked soap is being incorporated into the batter. Is this
normal? To me, it spoils the look.
Also, I've read that adding sodium lactate to the lye water will result in
harder bars. Has anyone tried that? My bars seem a bit spongy and although
useable immediately, they really benefit from drying out for a couple weeks.
I might as well stick with CP! Any thoughts?
Thank you,

White bits can mean too hot of crockpot or discounting water too much.
NaL is a good way to make it harder and prevent shrunken head. I have
used it up to 1 oz per lb of oils but I add it to the liquid oils to prevent
from reacting with the lye.
If you wait weeks for soap to harden well change recipe.



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